How to Stop a Leaky Faucet

A faucet that drips all day isn't just annoying, it's money down the drain, and the sound will drive you up the wall by bedtime. The good news is that a drip almost never means you need a whole new faucet. It's worn parts inside, and the replacements cost just a few dollars. Here's how to stop it the right way.

Know your faucet before you start

Faucets come in a few flavors, and the fix depends on which you have. An older two-handle faucet (separate hot and cold) usually leaks because a rubber washer or O-ring has worn out. A newer single-handle faucet usually uses a cartridge, and the fix is to swap that cartridge. You don't need to memorize the types, just take the old parts to the store and match them.

The fix, step by step

1. Shut off the water under the sink. Turn both supply valves clockwise until they stop. Then open the faucet to release the pressure and confirm the water is actually off before you take anything apart.
2. Plug the drain. Drop a rag or the stopper in the drain so a small screw or spring can't vanish down it. This one habit saves a lot of trips to the store.
3. Take the handle apart. Pop off the decorative cap on top of the handle, remove the screw underneath, and lift the handle off. Keep going, noting the order of every piece as it comes out.
4. Replace the worn part. On a two-handle faucet, swap the rubber washer at the bottom and the O-rings, they're the usual culprits. On a single-handle faucet, pull the cartridge straight up and out. Take the old part to the hardware store and match it exactly.
5. Grease the rubber. Give new washers, O-rings, and cartridges a light coat of plumber's grease before they go in. It helps them seat and seal and makes the handle turn smooth.
6. Reassemble and test slowly. Put it back together in reverse order, then turn the supply valves back on gradually. Run the faucet, work the handle, and check underneath for any drip at the connections.

Know when to call a pro

Swapping washers and cartridges is solid DIY. These are the signs it's more than that:

• The leak is coming from the wall or under the sink, not the spout. A supply-line or valve leak inside the cabinet, or water showing up behind the wall, is a different job.
• New parts didn't fix it. The valve seat inside the faucet body may be corroded or pitted, which sometimes means the faucet is better replaced than repaired.
• The shutoff valves under the sink won't turn, or leak when you use them. Don't force a seized valve, that's how a drip becomes a flood.

Send us a photo of what you're seeing and we'll give you a straight read on whether it's worth repairing or replacing, and handle it either way.